Just as a final comment, things are working very well at this point. A little bit of tweeking as suggested above helped.
But the biggest improvement was sparingly lubricating the lead screws. I had a can of spray silicon lubricant intended for the bearings and chain on my garage door. The can says the lube forms a dry lubricant layer that "doesn't attract dirt". I sprayed a bit of the lubricant into a plastic cup and used a Q-tip soaked in the liquid to apply the lube sparingly to the screws. That made a huge difference. After application turning the screws by hand was noticeably easier. And the chatter the anti-backlash nuts were making completely disappeared. All the axis run smooth as can be now.
here are the acrylics list. It was compiled by ralph of ben cut laser but I have done several and found the list to be true.
The 4 digit numbers are the ePlastics Reference Numbers
ORANGE 2422 - Can cut in 4 passes.
Light Purple 1020 - Cannot cut.
Dark Purple 3730 - Cannot cut.
RED 2423 - Can cut in 3 passes.
DARK GREEN 2092 - Can cut in 3 passes.
Light Green 2111 - Cannot cut.
Glass Green 3030 - Cannot cut.
Dark Blue 2424 - Cannot cut.
Light Blue 2069 - Cannot cut.
Yellow 2208 - Can cut in 3 passes.
Now there may be ways around the ones that are listed as cannot cut. Paint on the surface or nail polish could change that. I'll have to try it.
@Zax I have the GRBL 0.9 at the moment and was going to try the 1.1e or what the latest version is.
If I am honest, I got 2 3D printer and if I would try to stop the steppers by hand, I could not stop them, but those ELEKS MILL steppers are easy to stop...
I wil check the Vref as soon as I get my meter back....
The MANA.HEX was on and I updated that one first, before I tried GRBL
@nottingham82 excellent advices. Works like a charm now. Thanks a lot bro. There are still some minor inaccuracies but that should not be a big deal. I'll fine tune it later.
For those who have similar issue once you key in a wrong command then end up losing all the axis, what I did is to reflash the firmware and reset the numbers (ie 400.000; 500.000 etc) then reconnect the machine, you will have them back.
Hmm... Further testing has resulted in an inconsistent measurement... When using the jog command, I get the result as reported above... But when I enter a command into the command line, say, for example, Z22, instead of the expected 22mm, I get double the result, in this case 44mm... Further investigation to come... Still, I believe this process can be accurate, learning as I go...
Não recebi uma cabo para conectar na entrada "laser"
I did not receive a cable to connect to the "laser"
Admittedly, neither did I, but looking at several videos, it would appear not to be included or not needed? Would like to know as well, hadn't gotten around to asking that question yet, but might as well now! : P
Nah, you're fine. If you meant that the software comes with the original firmware, I guess I missed it. I'd thought of that too, but couldn't find it. Seems to worked out well in the end, so far.
Now working on dialing things in. Which means taking it apart and making sure the bushing are taking out as much backlash as possible, loosening bolts up, moving the slide assembly to one side, then tightening them down, to minimize rubbing and excessive friction. Wonder if I could find better, smoother rods, not that this machine needs it.
just for information, @pledgy says it might be $3=4 to swap the z axis on the eleksmill. He had to use $3=6 on his because his y axis was inverted too. But it should be 4 if you only need to invert the z axis
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