@dave_nh I will mention, if you ignore the errors (as a lot of software seems to do, including Eleks own) you run the risk that Grbl crashes and leaves the laser on while the motors are stopped = fire risk!
Maybe you mean how do you engrave where the machine draws around the circle instead of scanning across? If so you need a vector graphic in dxf format (or use the circle tool in T2 laser) as when you use a jpg or raster image the machine scans line by line across the circle.
I think you are correct.
Basically you are asking how to do vector (where the laser will follow the path) instead of raster (where it scans back and forth).
As @jimmyedson said, the difference is in the file. In T2Laser you can either use a vector file (DXF, PLT) or trace a raster image to generate a vector path. T2Laser Sketch feature can also generate both, with the filled option disabled you will get vector paths.
Thanks for the reply and for adding it to the "wish list". And I understand about the potential problems with the momentum in vertical cuts. And again, I really appreciate the work that you put into this excellent product.
@ztf the glass will etch wherever the laser meets resistance. in your case, it is the "underside" because the laser it actually etching the material under the glass and the heat is transferring to the glass.
Like @nottingham82 said, i use black spray paint or acrylic paint to etch on the "top" of glass.
That is old information. The old low power buttons ran the laser using the mosfet on the board and it would overheat the mosfet. New lasers dont do that. They have a board on the laser for that purpose or you can turn it on in the software. The mana se doesnt even have a low power button.
@ztf That's odd, the M30 (end of program) command is supposed to be deselected automatically when Grbl firmware is detected. Glad you fixed it, I will take a look and verify and remember this in the future. Thanks!
I mounted two microswitches, one on the end of the X axis rail, set so that when the laser mount moves fully to the left it closes the switch, the other on the left front (nearest to the side with the control circuit) set so that when the X axis rail moves to the front it closes that switch.
Both switches are connected in parallel, (common pins together and normally open pins together) then one set of contacts is soldered to pin D9 on the arduino the other to the ground connection. Set T2 Laser, control laser, settings, select "Home Switches" and that's it. (I fixed the switches in place with very strong double sided tape, works well but would probably be better to use nuts and bolts!)
@jo OK, now I understand. The profiles are just examples, they select the settings for you, actually you are supposed to create your own for your jobs.
So when you select my example 2-pass it is just turning on the correct features as I showed in the screenshot. So you can change it to 4 passes or whatever you need and then right click on a profile position and save it as "4-pass cutting" or any name you like.
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