@mrmister as @nottingham82 suggested: Apparently "Pain free" and "Banggood" are two terms that are mutually exclusive and entirely incompatible with each other… after 2 videos (so far), they now want me to "remove" (and by that: de-solder) a capacitor from the board!
I've simply responded: "Not a chance"!
The board is obviously brand new.
The board is obviously faulty.
They have a moral and ethical obligation to replace it.
If I (not even remotely qualified as an electrical engineer) damage either the board and/or myself further, then what?!?
is the power button on? I'm not being a jerk. It happens all the time even to guys that have had the laser for months. If the power button is off or the power supply fails you get no laser and no stepper motors but everything else lights up and looks like its working.
Patricio, I was having this same problem. I solved this for myself with some help. You might have the same issue:
The moment I plug the laser in, it begins to burn at full power. I contacted Zax, the maker of T2 Laser software (this is the software I subscribe to). I sent him images of the laser I own, which is the A5. Here is what he told me"
"**Well I've got good news for you. You purchased an excellent machine and it's easy to fix.
Disconnect the power and USB, then carefully remove the Nano controller (the board where you plug the USB in) and you'll find a jumper underneath. Move it from the 0.8 setting to 0.9 and then replace the Nano. On some boards there's a spare set of holes at the USB end, so pay attention which holes it is in before removing.
Grbl 1.1e (if it's from T2Laser) is what you want, it has the correct settings for your machine because I compiled it myself.
That should get you working.
Once I moved the jumper, which is a small capacitor-type-thing that is on two prongs under the controller, the laser was 100% in control of the program.
This may be the case for you. Hopefully this helps.