@CompWhisperer One last thing to try. Unplug the USB and remove the Nano clone from the controller board and put in on something insulating, plug it in and see if it works. If there's a short on the board it would prevent it powering up, this would confirm if the "Nano" is bad or the actual controller.

@EchoNeko15 I am the developer of T2Laser software which is not connected with Eleks.

I purchased one of their machines several years ago and found the supplied software to be lacking (and that's being kind) so wrote my own. I have since purchased several machines from Eleks and other vendors. Mechanically I believe the Eleks to be one of the best designs but the supplied controller and software are sub standard. Both are easily upgraded though, so I still feel like the Eleks is the best option for the price.

Thanks @Zax and because you are doing such a great job, following is video for you:

Youtube Video

I think i solved the problem. I had the main axis that the laser drives on a little loose. I had it loose so the wheels would turn easily.

A buddy of mine said no we need to tighten this up. I found out it was much easier to tighten w/ him. So now the wheels are pretty tight but they do seem to still move.

Bottom line is I got a few decent prints. I ll spend more time this weekend and confirm before I provide a more thorough analysis should anyone else have my same issues in the future

Just an FYI Tucker, I am running an A3 with the Mana Se board with the rather heavy Z axis add on, and it runs without any issues with 0.7v on the pot wiper. Is was also running well at the default setting 0f about 0.4v before I extended the rails. SO not sure you problem is strictly power. Unless you have the belts VERY tight.
Hope that helps

David

give me a few days will come up with a simple build it from kit solution, using acrylic sheet and 3D parts. the stumbling block is the way to hold different items in the shaft/chuck so that the step motor can rotate the object, I used the lid of a trial flask and a shaft fitted to it, as for now I'm only doing one job, the order is for 100 so will be a while until I need to think of another fitting, but will give it a go stand by for solution
Tug

@Zax Thanks Zax, emailed to support.
I'll be interested to know what is going wrong

Cheers

David

EleksMaker A3 Pro 2.5w

@alancord Good to hear, you went for the difficult route

Thanks. I didn't realise it was a locking switch. Easy to sort then.

@alancord You need to provide a surface for the laser to focus, paper backing will work.

@KarrMcDebt thanks for the information!!!

The best option i find is to write in Word and screenshot and use it for sketching..

It is a shortcut but gives great results

@Zax unfortunately I can't find (easily) clear acrylic with brown support, only transparent one. In the meanwhile I tried with the method you talk about, seen on benboxlaser.us: it seems to work, but with full power and vector feed rate at 200 I have the paper burned, colouring with black (impossible to clean, the ash is melted with the acrylic), and a lot of spots with paper melted with the acrylic. Per se, the image is correct (with a number of smudges, due to the temperature).
Maybe lowering the power, and/or speed up vector feed rate, using a ticker paper, and having a vented base, help to avoid such problems...

btw, do you use that acrylic with the brown paper backing toward laser, or in the back, mirroring the image?

@andrea.parenti I'm not sure exactly what problem you are experiencing but if you use T2Laser and the default firmware I provide it will work correctly.

@KarrMcDebt Very nice engraving.

@echohtp You need to install the correct firmware and configure it for CoreXY and Servo mode. In T2Laser this is very simple, click the EleksDraw option and it does both as well as set "laser max" to the correct value to prevent damage to the servo from over-travel which is another common problem.

@eastvan

@chris2smitty That isn't an Eleks product so you'll need to contact the vendor.