This bottle opener was commissioned by a friends wife. It was made on a Eleksmaker A5 with an L7 board and a 2500mw laser using T2 software. It was masking taped, burned at 750 mm/min, painted, then sealed with polyurethane.
if you are using t2's firmware (which you should be) 255 is max. If you put in 10000000 it will assume you mean full power and turn it back down to 255. The trick is to elevate the material so the gasses can escape from under neath, use an air assist system, and use multiple passes.
under settings change multipass vector to how ever many passes you need. For most projects I need 5-8 passes. No amount of putting in bigger numbers into your power setting will make it take less passes but some woods are easier or thinner than others.
a lifting platform would be my second choice. It wouldnt help if you needed to place the laser over a piece to work on it. If the laser beam isnt focused 110 mm from the laser then you cant use the laser on wood that is larger than the frame rails. Which I do all the time. If the laser is focused 110 mm from the laser then the lifting platform wouldnt be useful because the piece would always be too close. also its not a mesh. If you are cutting wood you need air underneath to cut so the gasses can escape. Wherever the gasses cant escape your cut wont burn all the way through. Idealy you need a z adjustment that allows for 50 to 60mm of adjustment if the laser doesnt have an adjustable focus. This allows you to use an alignment board or place the entire frame on top of the work.
Well arent we all high and mighty today. A company is not responsible for a kit they sold you that you assembled. There is a million things you could have done wrong that could cause this. Then there is also software problems, firmware problems, and just plain old windows problems. Benbox isnts Eleksmaker's software so also not their responsibility. Their software is Elekscam. These systems are very robust because they are simple. If you truely want to fix your problem and not just whine about whose responsability it is over to http://benboxlaser.us and many of us can help you get your system functioning like you expect. We have some great troubleshooting threads.
Eleksmaker was just a hardware company. Benbox was not their product. Then Benbox abandoned their software and did not update it to support the new features that eleksmaker built into their hardware. Eleksmaker rushed Elekscam out so there would be something for purchasers to use. This is never ideal. Basically you are beta testing. Z works hard to make it better as quickly as he can and in a few months I'm sure it will be light years ahead of where it is now.
I have a hard time feeling sorry for people searching for help here and bad talking eleksmaker. When I got my laser last year this forum didnt exist. Eleksmaker didnt talk directly to customers. My laser didnt work and there was no one to ask about it. I found @zax and the benboxlaser forum and they got my laser running. Zax software is great and gets better every month. Many of the benboxlaser guys are here and we help each other more than the manufacturers ever will. So stay, ask questions, help others, and share your successes.
any of the eleksmaker lasers will cut wood. The largest limiting factor is the soot created by burning through the wood. it blocks the laser and slows the cutting until it stops it all together. To keep your laser cutting its best to get a high pressure air line to blow at the cut to remove ash. This will greatly reduce the number of passes required to cut through wood. The 7 watt would be a bad choice as it does not have a focus so you would need to get your large wood blank up to the focus using some sort of raising platform.
give T2 laser a try. It has a very generous trial version. It just turns off after 30 minutes. Then you can turn it back on and your 30 min starts over. do that as much as you like. Other limit is on code length. But you will usually run out of time before you hit the code limit. The code limit also restarts when you reopen the program.
I love your commentary. I laughed out loud. That board does have a lot problems for sure.
I have some transfer paper I want to try but havent gotten to yet. The only thing I know about contact paper is that it is a pvc product and can emit chlorine gas when burned. So take the appropriate cautions when working with a laser and any pvc vinyls.
Yup we call them drop knives but if you were searching banggood for it you wont find one. They just call them vinyl cutters
hmmm that is interesting you saw a difference between 255 and 500. If you are using T2 firmware, everything above 255 is converted back down to 255 because 255 is max.There are other firmwares that use a max of 1000. 1000 or 255 doesnt matter so long as you know what the firmware max is. You dont get extra power by setting your max higher since the 8 bit processor can only handle 255 steps to max power. You may want to reflash your nano to ensure you dont get any thing weird happening.
To answer your question the wood is weak in the areas you are seeing it show as light. The burned wood is being removed in the form of ash and falling off the piece. Here are some suggestions to improve your product results.
If you want to produce a nice product the first step I would take is to cover the area you are burning in a masking tape. something like this: http://a.co/g61PrBz
This will prevent the smoke burn you got going on around their heads and really make the contrast areas (like the mans collar) pop. To cut through the tape you will have to slow it down a little. I think I usually use 750 mm/min. Now the lighter areas appear to me to be weak spots in the wood where more material was removed or the ash naturally fell away. see how you can see the vertical striations in the wood on the mans chest. That is indicative of the laser cutting into the wood deeper than say in his leg where the striation disappears.
You can do a few things. If you want just black marks run at a lower power or faster speed. You want just enough exposure to make a black mark. I myself like to truly engrave and dig down deep into the wood. When you do this you get alot of areas that look like what you have because the wood is softer in some area and the ash is more easily removed in some areas. I usually just take a nylon brush and this removes the ash and gives is an even grey tone. A nice stain may bring out better contrast due to the recessed engraving or you can hit it with a black primer spray paint before you remove the tape. For the record the later is what I do. Tape, engrave, brush, spray paint, remove tape, polyurethane finish.
her are some examples of what your end product could look like
This is is just a deep engraving brushed to get rid of dark spots and polyurathaned (you will notice mine isnt nearly as dark as yours but it is even which is what I wanted):
This one is engraved deep then spray painted black before I removed the tape then stained the whole thing:
This one is just a nice piece of walnut engraved deep with tape, brushed, sprayed black primer, the tape removed, then a very light sanding with fine sand paper:
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