@Diego73 I don't understand what you are saying, G and M commands are exclusive.
What firmware are you using?
Does it support S values (spindle speed / laser power)?
Generally when the laser is temporarily turned off for moves it is set to S0 rather than M5 but T2Laser has post processor options that should be able to do what you want, I just need to understand better. Can you post example G-code or contact me via email as this doesn't seem to be an Eleks question.
@quietthomas The reason the Eleks "Nano" has so many EEPROM (memory) related issues is they don't use a genuine Atmel ATmega328p but a Chinese copy. These experience memory failure due to temperature and will eventually stop working, the cheap replacements using a genuine chipset are much more reliable. Replace and problems solved.
Their controller boards and lasers are good quality, as are their machines in general so I still recommend them.
Arduino nano that runs the machine is possibly cheap (depending on region, time and site purchased on).
Using the "Rst Rom" button may break the machine because cheap nano clones can't be reset so easily.
The machine traveling diagonally, or drifting non-stop, are symptoms of this problem.
Replacing this chip is the easiest solution. Being an expert in re-flashing arduino chips is the very difficult solution.
Arduino nano clones (that are better quality) are now available on on the internet and work fine.
I solved the issue with a replacement chip a blue one with a diagonal microprocessor soldered on it, with soldered pins in the tail and a different kind of USB plug, so don't fear variations - as long as it's a "nano" clone, and not an "uno" or "pico" - it should work. They're fairly cheap to purchase.
I re-flashed the replacement nano on a Windows 7 machine (that I can't print from). I used this program from Eleks to re-flash:
Even with the CH340 driver installed, VC x64 (Visual C++) installed, and Microsoft's dot net framework 4.0 installed.
So I switched back to Windows 10 and the printer worked as normal again (new chip installed, and reflashed).
Things I learnt along the way
NEVER power up the machine without the USB connected and the comport connection established. If you power up the machine without the USB connected (and the comport selected) - there is the possibility that one of the pins gets a voltage surge, which can damage the chip.
The correct order of operations is:
Plug the USB in, start up EleksCam, select the correct comport (visible in Device Manager as CH340) THEN turn on the actual machine (the big button). Then possibly a button on the laser (depending on what you're doing with it).
I hope that helps others.
P.S I did try re-flashing a spare nano I had with the EleksCam "Rst Rom" button in Windows 10, but it returned a "Reset Rom Failed" message. Windows 7 and EleksRom is the only thing that worked for me, and the green light on the nano was very active during this process. EleksRom progress bar isn't about communication with the device. It's just about EleksRom's own running. Not the success of the operation.
When I download the EleksCAM V3.1.0, it's a zip file. Within the Zip file there is no installer. So I created a directory on my C drive, C:\EleksCAM and unzipped the contents there. I click on ELEKSCAM.exe and nothing happens.
Looking at the log files, it says there was a .NET error but isn't really helpful. .NET is installed by default in Windows 10.
Is there supposed to be a setup.exe file within the zip file? I don't see where there is an InstallShield application.