@Schorschi Those are not valid G-code commands, at least not standard MIT/NIST codes that Grbl uses.

Use G92 to set an offset.

@bhayter I did what you said, but get: G01 X99.8 Y100 M03 S0, however that isn't really important as the method is what needs to be changed not the G-code generation for a raster scan.

If you set the hatch spacing to 0.2 and use a vector solution it will be faster and more accurate than converting it to a raster image. You also won't have to combine jobs or worry about alignment.

The same is true with the other methods I explained.

Hi Zak
I checked that and have had to set to enable Reverse X Axis. I am sure I did not have to set that previously and this what confused me.
Thank you again for your help
All the best

@1art If you send me the DXF I can check it for you, or perhaps the issue is you aren't setting Workpiece Origin (0,0) before you start the job.

Sent the file.
Thanks
Paul

@sk2 T2Laser follows the sequence that is written in the DXF, if you draw using polylines (connected) then most programs will output in that order but if you have discrete lines unconnected it probably uses the draw order. If you upload or email me an example I can easily check it for you.

Again, although it's a CAD problem and should be fixed in the export T2Laser has an option to fix this. It's called the DXF Optimizer and has several settings, the defaults will do what you want.

I measured ~45mm as well, and agree it's always better to focus below surface for optimium cutting.

@Zax awesome, thanks!

@sk2 The dots are from your pen bleeding, ball pens use ink so it will soak in very quickly. It is difficult to improve as these machines use the older Grbl 0.9 firmware, perhaps increasing the acceleration parameter would help (I think this is possible with the older firmware).

You can do this using debug mode. Type these commands in the box and press enter.

$120=1000
$121=1000

@fiocco222 Send me the DXF by email and I will check if for you.

@Kevin-Harte That's impossible, T2Laser sends G-code to the USB port. It can't damage your machine.

@Zax said in Laser soll brennen wo ich will?:

@siggidrechsler It sounds like your laser and mouse are using the same USB port, this will cause problems with the laser as well. They may be on separate physical ports but internally your PC probably has a USB hub so both are using the same.

Do you have another USB port to use?

Ja, super genau so war es, vielen Dank für die rasche Hilfe!!

@Piramidowy I would be interested in that firmware if it works. I have only tried to implement CoreXY, Servo and Homing and there was no way to get the size within Nano limitations but for your application that should be possible.

Yes, I can add a servo mode to easily implement the pre and post dwell although I prefer using a post processor than modifying the base G-code (this keeps it standard).

@tgrott If you have home switches the machine will have a constant reference but most machines do not come with them so machine 0,0 is set when the controller boots-up. So if you always move it back to your 0,0 before disconnecting the laser then it will keep the location unless bumped. I recommend home switches especially if you are going to use a grid or jigs.

A grid should be a vector, so you want to save as a DXF. The objects, hatch etc needs to be converted to paths before you export. Click Path / Object to Path. If you need help, email the SVG to me and I can walk you through the steps.

15000mW or 15W is likely the electrical input power and not the output power which is likely 3W or somewhere around there. It should be able to cut 3mm laser ply with 6 or so slow passes using air assist. Powder coated mugs may be a challenge depending on the color and reflectivity of the coating.

@RodneyB what??? @Zax is the only one who answers quickly, not only about his product. You are extremely unfair.
He gave you all the answers you need, in my opinion.

@NikonErik This isn't that difficult, I see a couple of options.

Run it as a raster image, exactly like your illustrator job

Use vector and do pseudo hatch fill to replicate the greyscale (including the ship and flame), you can use lower laser power to get the correct shading by hatch filling with a different color

There won't be much difference in result or time and 1 is obviously easier.

@Zax Thank you, I will try and purchase laser ply and re try.

Ok, that does make more sense, I thought the limits were 10,000 line and 30 minutes. I bet you are right that I am exceeding the lower limit. Thanks, Zax.