Spot on, shapes are cleanly closed now, thank you!

@donovanpl123 Set it to Uno, or your boot loader is corrupt.

@donovanpl123 It switches from USB power to external power. It should not be changed.

@tmpx
Hey man links are not showing: link video & My draw

@Zax said in No puedo descargar el software:

You can use the free T2Laser trial to test your machine, it comes with everything you need (including device driver and latest firmware).

probaré eso, gracias por la respuesta

@AlanKWatson68 If you are using LB then you should contact them for the firmware and support. The Mana works well with T2Laser and either Grbl 0.9j or Grbl 1.1e DEFAULT firmware that is provided.

@talk2dog What software are you using?

You need to either use a firmware that has Z homing or compile Grbl yourself using Arduino IDE.

@TIMMEL01 The most common reason is power savings on your computer and/or USB ports. If you are a T2Laser customer you can contact me for support.

@metelo Elekscam is obsolete and unsupported, I wrote T2Laser as an alternative option and it supports Windows 7 64-bit in fact that is what I used to develop it.

@holic46 You don't, the laser board (constant current driver) is calibrated for the diode. If you were to increase the current you would simply create excess heat and damage the diode.

@Zax thanks, when I have a few hours I will take you up on that. Unfortunately, when I get home from work at the hospital it's late and my mind is fried. Hope to have a weekend free some time soon.

If it's from a drill you will find it somewhere less than 1ohm so you have no chance of running from a 3.3 amp supply. The stall-start current is way too high for your PSU, as DC42 suggests.
However you could try fitting a 50 watt halogen bulb in series with the motor and also an SPST switch across the bulb to shorten out the bulb. When you power up the systems the bulb will glow bright, the motor will pick up speed and the bulb will dim. When the motor is running as fast as it can with the bulb still in circuit you then operate the switch to shorten out the bulb and the motor will run up to full speed. In effect you have a resistance controlled soft-start.

If you can control the motor movement manually, but the motor doesn't work when engraving, it may be the problem of [,]and [.] You can use the following software to repair it.

There is a well established standard for the 4 pin PWM fan output on Motherboards.

The PWM output is open collector BJT or FET so needs to be pulled up externally to 3-5 V. The PWM frequency should be from 21-28 kHz and from 20% to 100%. The reason the PWM does not go below 20% is that many fans will not start or run at the lower speeds. The computer BIOS will normally start the fans at 100% for several seconds on power on to get them started, then backoff to temperature controlled speeds. Some BIOS's will allow you to set a minimum fan speed higher than 20% or to set 0% to turn the fan off completely.

The fan PWM controller is also responsible for counting the Tach signal, this is used to detect slow or stalled fans. If you don't enable this (supply the Tach signal to the controller) you might find your fan controller continually raising the speed of the fans. The solution is of course to feed the signal from one fan back to the motherboard controller.

Admin
CloudDesktopOnline