T2,Inkscape,UniversalEngraver15000mw



  • Does anyone have videos or step by step instructions for using all three items listed in the heading that begin with creating something in Inkscape, sending it to T2 and running the laser?

    1. I REALLY need to figure out first and foremost how to make my laser remain in the same "Home" position. I think I have it set and once I exit the program and open it up the next time, it runs into the frame. When I get it where I want it to be my home location, I right click the "Home" icon, and I've also tried the dropdown list under "Machine Home," I believe is what it's called.

    2. I made the grid for measuring but I'm apparently not doing something right here either. While in Inkscape, I've made sure I'm using and saving mm settings. If I save as a .png, it does change it to pixels, I think, in T2. If I save as a different file type, the font and whatever other designs with it don't hatch engrave but sometimes just outline even though I have the hatch settings on, when I try solid fill, I think it changes the paths or something and the piece becomes skewed. I've tried to save just the object's size when saving, using a transparent background so there's no "document size" but only the size of the object and I have tried setting a document size, placed the object where I want it on the "document" then remove the document frame from the screen before saving, use transparent background and load it into T2, and that's not working for me either.

    3. Any suggested power and speed settings for my machine for engraving leather, cutting leather, engraving powder coated mugs (is there a rotary attachment anyone can suggest that would work with my system or do I need one if I'm only engraving one side of a cup or mug?), engraving glass or plexiglass/acrylic. Can my laser actually cut through 3mm wood? If so, what's the best type to use? I've looked everywhere to see if anyone has experience with the laser I have for suggested materials settings and can't find anything. I assume this means I have a 15 watt laser, but then everything I read, everyone says there's no such thing as a 15 watt laser, so if that's the case, I don't have any idea what I have to try and compare with other settings. Can I switch the actual laser on my machine at some point to something with more wattage? I have the link posted below of the machine I own. I purchased the 40"x40" frame.

    4. WHAT'S AN EASY WAY TO GET MY PIECE CENTERED EVERY TIME??? I've wasted a lot of material. This goes back to my Question No. 2.

    https://universalengraver.com/products/15000-mw-blue-cnc-laser-engraving-machine-automotive-bicycle


  • Developer of T2Laser Software

    @tgrott If you have home switches the machine will have a constant reference but most machines do not come with them so machine 0,0 is set when the controller boots-up. So if you always move it back to your 0,0 before disconnecting the laser then it will keep the location unless bumped. I recommend home switches especially if you are going to use a grid or jigs.

    A grid should be a vector, so you want to save as a DXF. The objects, hatch etc needs to be converted to paths before you export. Click Path / Object to Path. If you need help, email the SVG to me and I can walk you through the steps.

    15000mW or 15W is likely the electrical input power and not the output power which is likely 3W or somewhere around there. It should be able to cut 3mm laser ply with 6 or so slow passes using air assist. Powder coated mugs may be a challenge depending on the color and reflectivity of the coating.


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